A Traveling Culinary Adventure
Oh what a wonderful feeling…
Right now I’m sitting in our motor coach with a cup of hot coffee, watching the sunrise over the Atlantic at beautiful Hunting Island, South Carolina. It reached a high of 58 degrees yesterday…not exactly HOT…but it sure beats the 11 degrees in Maine a week ago!!!
We left Maine with over two feet of snow in our yard and were happy to see grass, albeit brown as early as New Jersey.
(Actual shot from just outside our coach. Beach is no more than 20 yards away.)
Our goal with the Gypsy Kitchen is to seek out interesting, unusual and/or simply fun culinary excursions by traveling some of America’s forgotten highways and byways and to hopefully bring them to life here on these pages. Another goal of ours is to try and bring some of the local flavors and cuisine from various regions of the country in the form of recipes and how-to videos in the very near future. (Watch for those to begin soon).
With these goals in mind, once we cleared Washington D.C., we set our GPS for North Carolina’s Outer Banks, or OBX as the locals refer to them. We had never visited this area before and thought it could make for an interesting “first stop” on our adventure.
Before I go on, let me get a few things out of the way…
1) Cindy is capable of driving the 36 foot motor coach as adequately as I certainly am, perhaps better. The fact of the matter is that I make a horrible passenger and a worse navigator…whereas Cindy is very content being a passenger and is a tremendous navigator.
2) For some unexplainable reason, it just takes longer to get anywhere in a motor coach then in a car…don’t ask me why, but I have quickly found that a car and an RV both traveling down the same road at the same speed DO NOT arrive at the same time – I think it’s one of those weird time-space vortex things. Cindy and I are already questioning how we ever drove from Maine to Florida in a car packed with three kids in less then 36 hours whereas we have been on the road for a week now and are a little over half way to Florida? (Actually, we are in absolutely no rush and are taking our time going from place to place – but the time-space thing still applies).
3) Another fact we are quickly learning is that most RV Parks provide water, electric, sewer, and often cable and internet hook-ups. Many offer other amenities like pools, playgrounds, activity centers, are pet friendly, etc. Many State and National Parks that offer RV camping provide water and electrical hook-ups, a dump station on site but usually no cable or internet but DO offer superior scenery and a real sense of being a part of nature. Many have hiking trails, biking trails, nature walks, are pet friendly and have a real nice neighborly feeling. We will be attempting to stay at more State and National Parks during our adventure, but many book out months in advance so we will have to see how well we do.
4) Speaking of internet, right before we left on this adventure, we installed a brand new device called “Autonet Mobile” in the coach which somehow mystically grabs signals from all sorts of towers i.e. cell, EVDO, GSM, CDMA (whatever those are) and converts those signals into a secured traveling “WIFI” for automobiles and vehicles. We saw this highlighted on the Today Show's piece on the recent Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegas and said that’s just what we needed. So we contacted Natalie at Autonet Mobile and she assisted in getting us the unit in time for our departure. I did the install myself which took about 45 minutes start to finish – pretty basic red wire = positive, black wire = negative and we instantly had our own traveling WIFI! We have not encountered anywhere yet that we have not had a signal, sometimes it’s slow but sure beats having to find a Starbucks or trying to use a Blackberry as a modem. Anyone who travels a lot and needs access to the internet should check this out. Their web address is www.autonetmobile.com Remember that it is never suggested that one uses cell phones, computers or other electronic devices while operating a motor vehicle.
But back to our first week on the road…Within minutes of setting our sites on the Outer Banks, Cindy had located and booked us into one of the only RV Parks open in the area this time of year.
Because of the aforementioned time-space vortex, what appeared to be a 5 hour trip turned into a 7+ hour journey. By the time we had made our way out to Hatteras Island, it was well after sunset and we were restless, tired and hungry. About a mile before the RV park, we stopped by one of the only convenience stores open to top off the propane tank in the motor coach and asked the young attendant if he could recommend a place to eat locally and he pointed to the little dive joint next door, the “Hot Tuna”…his comment was that the food was always good and fresh – I hadn’t even noticed the place as the facade was -nondescript!!!
Our choices were few, we were starving so we figured “what-the-heck” and made our way towards the joint. Upon entering, the inside decor matched the outside perfectly – “nondescript”. The Hot Tuna is made up of two even-sized square rooms, one the bar which was obviously that local “hang” and the other the dining room complete with a small chalk board sign stating “seat yourself anywhere”. Cindy and I found a small booth in the front corner with a window overlooking the parking lot. Formica tabletops atop a brownish vinyl floor, paper napkins rolled with the generic diner patterned flat-ware, the typical plastic salt & pepper shaker and bottle of ketchup completed the table setting. The dining room was occupied by 9 guests including Cindy & I – the bar had approximately 18 happy guests – all of which appeared to know one another. After adjusting to the atmosphere and the smell of tobacco, the Hot Tuna actually began to sooth these two tired, weary travelers. The place had a nice “vibe” to it and everyone seemed to be in a great mood – there was a buzz about the Hot Tuna! Within a few minutes the bartender/waitress appeared with a mile-wide smile and menu’s, took our drink orders and with a dash was off to attend to ALL of the guests in the entire joint. A few minutes later she had returned to take our orders and made a few suggestions of what were the “house specialties” – the Seared Tuna Basket & the Crab Cake Basket (the Baskets come with your choice of potato salad or French fries, cole slaw and hush puppies and are considered the “entree” selections on the menu).
While Cindy and I enjoyed our beverages and awaited our respective “Baskets”, we had time to watch as more and more guests arrived, both for the dining room and the bar area and we watched as this happy-go-lucky server danced from guest to guest…maybe she was one of the “buzz” factors as she just seemed to set the pace as slow and comfy, by now the place had about 35 guests total.
Within 10 minutes from placing our order, our “Baskets” arrived complete with our cole slaw, potato salad and tartar sauce sitting in their own Styrofoam cups complete with plastic lids (very diner-ish). At first I thought that the food just tasted this good because we were both so hungry, but as I took the time to examine my crab cakes, it was clear to see that these were certainly home-made and full of fresh sweet crab meat, gently seared and golden brown…hey – this was really good and tasty. I looked over at Cindy’s Seared Tuna to see that it was beautifully cooked with a nice ruby red center – I also noticed the look of content on her face…she had picked a “winner” with this “Basket”. Okay, we were in this dive kind-of joint which is nothing to write home about and we are eating really excellent food served in those ugly red plastic baskets with the waxed paper, we’re enjoying the now “live” guitarist playing James Taylor, Crosby, Still, Nash & Young and others…people are happy and content and heck – it’s not 11 degrees outside!!!
The Hush Puppies were a tad over cooked but still tasty, the potato salad could stand a bit more seasoning and the tartar sauce was, like the place “nondescript” but whoever was cooking the actual proteins knew their stuff. (Actually, the cook/chef appeared from time to time to help serve some of the courses to guests, bus a table here and there and to say hello to several of the locals occupying the bar area. It appeared as though the chef and bartender/server were the only two employees serving now up to about 40+ guests.
Service was certainly not what anyone would call formal and there were gaps between visits – but the service was attentive, friendly and warm.
All-in-all, I would have to say that we enjoyed “Hot Tuna”, when we left our appetites had been satisfied, our bodies re-nourished and our spirits lifted. If we found ourselves back in the OBX area, the Hot Tuna would certainly be a contender for a repeat visit. I might suggest that the Styrofoam cups for the potato salad and other condiments is unnecessary and probably costly and wasteful (Styrofoam does not break-down in landfills EVER) – I can see it for take-out (perhaps paper cups) but not for table service. Adding a bit more care in the flavoring and seasoning of these same condiments could really improve the entire dish rather then simply accompanying it and watch the Hush Puppies…golden brown – not dark brown.
Overall I would rate the Hot Tuna: 
Worth a try, good quality food, friendly service, nice vibe.
Hot Tuna
23500 NC Highway 12
Rodanthe, NC 27968
(Hatteras Lighthouse, Outer Banks, North Carolina)
After two days resting up, we headed out of the Outer Bank making our way towards Charleston, South Carolina…again the trip somehow took about 50% longer then we anticipated. Maybe some of that is due to stopping every couple of hours so the dogs could enjoy the scents of the area (any dog owner knows of what I refer). Perhaps stopping at several little shops along the way adds to the travel time. One stop we made was to this impeccably clean fish market “Full Circle Crab Co.” located on Highway 64 in Columbia, NC. This is a must stop for any seafood lovers traveling through this area of the country. Although the name is Full Circle Crab Company and apparently they handle tons of crab in season, this retailer/wholesaler has a wonderful array of seafood both local species as well as some varieties brought-in from other parts of the world. Wow, the yellow fin tuna and and sweet bay scallops looked too good to pass-by…we cooked them up over the next 2 nights and they were both delicious. This place is so clean and well maintained that you actually could eat off the floor. The woman behind the counter could not have been nicer nor more informative.
Full Circle Crab Co. gets: 
Impeccably clean, the freshest of fish, selection, quality.
Full Circle Crab Co
1366 Highway 64 East
East Columbia, NC 27925
Unfortunately for us, Charleston was cold, foggy and dreary while we were visiting, not common for them according to several of the locals. We did venture downtown to the visitors center and to Market Street (where the slave auctions took place in earlier times…now an outdoor market with all kinds of vendors). We wanted to find a place that served fare of a local variety and found ourselves moving from menu board to menu board until we happened upon the “Noisy Oyster” on North Market Street. BBQ Shrimp BLT Po Boy and Shrimp & Okra Gumbo sounded like just what we were seeking. Largely due to the weather, this place was virtually empty upon our arrival around 12:20PM. We were greeted by an extremely friendly crew, enjoyed a couple of well prepared Bloody Mary’s (this is all work folks!!!). Our server pointed out the Seafood Trio Appetizer Special of a dozen local Oysters, a dozen steamed shrimp and some seared yellow fin tuna – we were sold…delicious, wonderful, fresh. Some of the best oysters we have had in a while – large plump, tangy sweet…the shrimp beautifully steamed so they were fully cooked but still had a nice snap to them and the tuna, again a lovely ruby red center. Served with cocktail sauce, sweetened soy sauce and wasabi…WOW a definite home run.
(Noisy Oyster, North Market Street, Charleston, SC)
The BBQ Shrimp Po Boy was messy and delicious as well although the bun was a bit dry, perhaps a day old. Cindy loved the shrimp & okra gumbo with the snappy shrimp, rice, okra, onion, tomato, etc. We were stuffed as the appetizer would have been enough for the 2 of us for lunch…we skipped dinner altogether.
We wish we had more time to explore this wonderful little city, perhaps on another visit. If we find ourselves in the area…we are sure to visit the “Noisy Oyster” again. This time we won’t pig-out like this time.
The Noisy Oyster gets: 
Great regional food, nice staff, good drinks.
Noisy Oyster
24 North Market Street
Charleston, SC 29401
From Charleston, we made our way down to Hunting Island State Park, South Carolina which we absolutely love. We originally reserved 2 nights but have extended our stay through Monday, February 2nd. The weather is improving daily – actually high 50’s right now, sun shining. Here are a few pictures of the area.
(Hunting Island Light House, Hunting Island, SC)
(The beach at Hunting Island, SC)
(The dogs enjoying the beach, Hunting Island, SC)
(Dinner in the coach – Beef Tenderloin with Syrah-Herb
Reduction, Haricot Verts with Garlic and EVOO
and Sweet Florida Corn)
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Until next week,
Chef John
in the “Gypsy Kitchen”
Ratings Scale:
= Needs Work, Most Likely Would Not Return
= Good Basic Find, Things Could Be Improved, Would Probably Try Again
= As Expected, Good Choice, A Few Things Could Be Better, Almost Certainly Visit Again
= Better Than Expected, Great Choice, Would Definitely Revisit
= Totally Blown Away, Every Point Exceeded Expectation, Would Drive Out-Of-Way To Revisit
