(And the coach is just about as wide as the road!)Cindy and I are staying on St. George Island, which is part of the “forgotten coast” in the Florida pan-handle between Tallahassee and Pensacola and this place is beautiful!!! This is certainly not your Miami glitter or Tampa congestion…but rather a step back to a time of family gatherings around a roaring fire on the beach, a cookout with family and friends, a quite stroll along the miles of sandy beach…this is what the locals call “old Florida” and it is easy to see why many hope that the area remains “forgotten”.
It seems that the cell phone companies and internet providers have mostly forgotten this light slice of Floridian heaven as well…we have been largely without either for about a week now. You actually have to go out of your way to find an internet signal in this part of the country, and you learn who has and who does not have a protected internet connection. Although I have yet to try – I am told that some of the best sport fishing can be found in the local waters off St George Island and right now the pompano are said to be arriving. The local oysters are out of this world delicious and some of the plumpest I’ve ever seen but you’ll have to wait until next week to read the reviews of the local eateries here as I am once again getting ahead of myself.
Last week we ventured from the town of Citra up to Manatee Springs State Park, located in the town of Chiefland, Florida. One of Cindy’s quests on this trip was to see the endangered manatee so Manatee Springs seemed like the right place to head. Upon arrival, we learned that the waters had been warming and that the manatee had just left and ventured out into the open waters of the Suwannee River. Even though the manatee had departed, the Springs were lovely for snorkeling and swimming at a constant 72 degrees year round. I cannot believe that this relatively small spring pumps out approximately 100 million gallons of clean, crystal clear water per day into the Suwannee River which eventually ends up in the Gulf of Mexico. The park has a large deer population and on our second evening we came upon a doe with her new fawn who could not have been more than a few days old – a beautiful sight indeed.
In order to be guaranteed a manatee sighting, we we’re informed that Homosassa Springs State Park had six females in captivity – so off we trekked down Route 19 about 50 miles to Homosassa Springs, which used to be a privately owned zoo attraction until the late 1980’s when the state of Florida took over the operation. (I have to admit that I wasn’t expecting too much in the way of excitement here – but was I ever surprised). I was taken back a little when we pulled into the parking lot on this overcast Wednesday to find that the rather large parking area was completely filled and that the overflow parking on the grass was the only area available. Entering the Visitors Area, I still had my doubts…but once we were actually in the park – it was amazing!!! Clean, organized and an all-around good time. The main spring has an underwater observatory which allows a very up-close and personal look at several species of salt water fish (living in a fresh water spring?) as well as the manatee, which are so lovely to see in this manner. So graceful and docile…it’s sad to learn that we (MAN) are their only known threat!!! In addition to the manatee and fish, the park has white-tail deer, alligators, river otters, bobcat, owls, eagles, pink flamingo and a friendly old hippopotamus – Lou (the only creature not native to Florida but he came with the park).
(Lou – the friendly hippo, Homosassa Springs, Florida)
As I stated, I was not expecting much from our day at Homosassa State Park but I have to tell you that I had one of the best times I’ve had in generations at a zoo like attraction and for only $8.00 per person it was a bargain beyond bargains. If you ever find yourself around the Hernando, Inverness area of Florida – please take a day and visit Homosassa Springs – you will thank me many times over for the tip.
(Here are a few pictures I took while at the park).
(If you’d like to see more pictures of the manatee and our trip, click on over to the GYPSY KITCHEN Photo Album).
Several people told us that we needed to go out to Cedar Key, which is about 20 miles South of Chiefland, and that Cedar Key is like stepping back in time about 50 years. So on Thursday, Cindy and I made our way out to this tiny little coastal village and yes it is a step back to easier days. With a year round population of about 900, Cedar Key has one bank, a small grocery store, a handful of shops and interestingly over a dozen restaurants. In it’s day, Cedar Key was famous for the production of Faber and American Eagle pencils which were made from abundant cedar trees from which Cedar Key got it’s name. This was before the days of forest management and so the cedar trees were basically clear-cut and then the pencil industry packed up and moved on. We took a two-hour boat tour with Captain Doug Maple of TIDEWATER TOURS, out around Cedar Key and the adjoining islands and saw a family of porpoise, white pelicans, an American Bald Eagle and several other species of birds and had an opportunity to learn about this little gem of a town.
(Reduced oceanfront property for sale, Cedar Key, Florida)
After the tour, we needed to try the local oysters, so we made our way to the BIG DECK RAW BAR, located on the touristy Dock Street and ordered up a dozen on the half shell along with a couple of cold drafts. Although the oysters were fresh and tasty, the BIG DECK RAW BAR could stand a little more creativity in the kitchen…come on now, how hard is it to mix a little horseradish, ketchup, lemon juice and a dash or two of hot sauce? No we had to make our own at the table because only horseradish and a wedge of lemon came with the oysters. When asked about “cocktail sauce”, a few plastic containers of SYSCO cocktail sauce appeared from within the waitresses apron.
The BIG DECK RAW BAR rates:
Get with the program folks!!!
(Island Hotel & Restaurant, Cedar Key, Florida)
We had a lovely dinner at the ISLAND HOTEL & RESTAURANT (considered the up-scale dining destination on Cedar Key), the oldest commercial building on Cedar Key, which reportedly is home to several ghosts. We had a lovely little table on the screened in veranda. Cindy and I shared a cup of the Crab Bisque which was really delicious. Salads accompanied the meals and were colorful, crisp and flavorful, all served with made-from-scratch dressings. Cindy enjoyed the Artichokes Atsena Otie which is sautéed artichokes, scallops, shrimp and mushrooms splashed with sherry in a rich cream cheese parsley sauce. The Stuffed Grouper split to hold an artichoke, shrimp and cheese stuffing, baked in white wine and butter sauce caught my eye and I enjoyed every bite. Both dishes were served with a nice, simply prepared basmati rice and a medley of fresh vegetables…both good but not memorable. Service was very polite, informative of the area and knowledgeable about the menu although a few service details were overlooked throughout out meal.
The ISLAND HOTEL AND RESTAURANT rates:
An enjoyable spot for dinner, especially the screened veranda.
Before we left Chiefland and Manatee Springs on Friday we stopped by this little BBQ joint called “BUBBAQUES It’s the Pits”, located in a strip mall on Route 19 just south of town. This joint was so much fun and the staff was so upbeat – of course the food tasted great. Upon entering you walk up to the “shack” and place your order, Cindy and I both opted for the daily special of Bubbaqued Beef Sammywich which was touted as “More fun than a tornado on a trailer park”. Smoked beef brisket piled high between two thick pieces of Texas Toast, uhhh, excuse me, two thick slices of Bubba Bread, served with French fries and a pickle. On your table is an array of Bubba’s BBQ sauces; Moonshine, Alabama Slama, Rib Lube, Ole Yeller, Panama Red, Tractor Grease, Rump Roaster, Mississippi Mud, Sugar Shack and Pine Tar – I’m not making these up folk’s!!! Of course Cindy had to try each and everyone, I went for the “house” which is Rib Lube, a tomato based medium heat sauce – very good indeed.
Eating at BUBBAQUES is like being invited over to Larry the cable guy’s house for an afternoon BBQ…the intercom yelps out things like “Rita get in da truck” to signal that her food is ready for pickup. In addition to BBQ BUBBAQUES offers a few salads “Rabbit Food”, “Fountain Beverages”, “Local Brew” and “Fancy Pants Foreigner Beer”. There is a notice on the menu which reads “NOW LOOKEE HERE…Because of the wood smoke utilized in our cooking process, a pink color is imparted to the meats we serve. All meat is cooked well done. So don’t get yer knickers all in a twist.” – I think that sums it up nicely!!!
BUBBAQUES It’s the Pits rates:
A really fun place for lunch or casual dinner.
After BUBBAQUES, we headed up Route 19 towards Tallahassee to spend the weekend with one of Cindy’s aunts whom I had not met before. Shadow, as she prefers to be called is a whipper-snapper of a lady. 85 years old and could run circles around me and probably beat me in an arm wrestle. Shadow is an avid outdoors woman and volunteers at “Saint Marks National Wildlife Refuge”, located just outside Tallahassee. She is a bundle of knowledge with regard to all kinds of plant-life as well as wildlife and she’s a great little cook as well. We dined on a delicious pot of Cactus Stew that she made with local venison, sweet potato, hominy, green chili and tomato. I had to have the recipe, which she gladly shared and so I am passing it on to you as this weeks recipe.
Saturday was Shadows birthday and we spent the day visit the state capital building, where she seemed to know just about everyone, the outside farmers market just steps away from the capital steps and we had lunch at SIENYARD SEAFOOD RESTAURANT in Woodville (just south of Tallahassee). This busy place is a favorite of the locals, serving up fresh local seafood, mostly fried but also baked or blackened. Shadow had the Fried Oyster Platter, Cindy the Blackened Grouper and I choose the Fried Shrimp Platter. The food was fresh, hot and tasty all-be-it typical for this kind of establishment. A candle adorned a piece of homemade Key Lime Pie which was delicious and rich.
The SEINYARD SEAFOOD RESTAURANT rates: 
Good, basic seafood in a clean, friendly atmosphere.
Have a great week, please keep sending those suggestions and comments along – We really are using them as guiding posts for our adventure. Also, please tell your friends about our wacky travels and have them join our growing family.
Remember to support your local restaurants and let them know that their hard efforts are appreciated. No government stimulus programs are going to help these tireless soles out and they really do rely on us for their livelihood and right now so many independent restaurants in America are offering some great, wonderful and tasty “Special Offers” to entice us with!
Until next week,
Chef John
in the “Gypsy Kitchen”
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Ratings Scale:
= Needs Work, Most Likely Would Not Return
= Good Basic Find, Things Could Be Improved, Would Probably Try Again
= As Expected, Good Choice, A Few Things Could Be Better, Almost Certainly Visit Again
= Better Than Expected, Great Choice, Would Definitely Revisit
= Totally Blown Away, Every Point Exceeded Expectation, Would Drive Out-Of-Way To Revisit
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